Nearby, up Constitution Steps, is Moroccan-inspired hotel and restaurant Ziggurat. Cocktail in hand, we catch our breath in a cosy beach hut on the roof terrace. Below, slate roofs sweep down to the harbour, and beyond lie the islands of Herm, Jethou and Sark, in a glittering sea.
Closer to sea level, Slaughterhouse is another new hangout. The old abattoir beside the harbour has been given a facelift and its bar is well-stocked with local ales – such as Randalls Breda and Rocquette cider – and gins. There’s also an extensive cocktail list, while mains include pan-roasted sea bream with parma ham and sea herbs, and fennel pollen-encrusted lamb loin with miso and wild mushroom fricassée.
For those with a sweet tooth, nearby chocolatier Ben Le Prevost offers artisan confections with cumin, miso or raspberry and stinging nettle. For a more hands-on experience, Rebecca’s at Oatlands Village now offers chocolate-making workshops. I leave clutching a bag filled with boozy prunes dipped in dark chocolate and a delicate white chocolate oyster shell. Guernsey goes gastro: a food adventure in the Channel Islands | Travel | The Guardian